{"id":711,"date":"2025-12-09T17:44:53","date_gmt":"2025-12-09T09:44:53","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.gdgaoyi.com\/news_xq\/8.html"},"modified":"2026-05-22T14:36:49","modified_gmt":"2026-05-22T06:36:49","slug":"pvc%e7%93%a6%e5%ae%89%e8%a3%85%e6%b3%a8%e6%84%8f%e4%ba%8b%e9%a1%b9","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.gdgaoyi.com\/en\/news_xq\/711.html","title":{"rendered":"PVC tile installation precautions"},"content":{"rendered":"

I. Security instructions<\/h3>\n

Construction personnel must be professionally trained and obtain the relevant professional qualification certificate, wear necessary safety tools (helmet, safety belt, etc.) before installation, during installation and later routine maintenance, step on the purlin, avoid stepping on the tile surface without purlin support (can not step on the peak position of the tile, should be stepped on the plane position of the tile with purlin support).<\/p>\n

\nII. Installation tools:<\/h3>\n

Project wire, portable drills, portable cutters, tape measures, steel rulers, wrenches, portable grinders, self-tapping screw sockets, etc.<\/p>\n

\niii. purlin and spacing requirements:<\/h3>\n

1. Purlin can be square pipe (60\u00d740\u00d73\u339c), C-type steel (100\u00d750\u00d720\u00d73\u339c), anticorrosive wood square (60\u00d740\u339c) or FRP purlin.<\/p>\n

2. The requirements for purlins using different thicknesses are shown in the table below:<\/p>\n

Attention:<\/p>\n

\u2460If the temperature of the room is higher, the spacing of the sandalwood bars should be designed smaller, otherwise it is easy to trigger the deformation of the tile.<\/p>\n

\u2461The flatter the slope, the smaller the purlin spacing, and try to choose high wave products, to avoid water accumulation and leakage caused by insufficient slope.<\/p>\n

The darker the color of the product, the smaller the purlin spacing should be (using dark color product, it is recommended that the purlin spacing \u2264600mm), dark color (black, grey, dark green, brown, etc.) tiles surface heat absorption is easy to deform due to thermal expansion and contraction of the characteristics of the deformation leading to water leakage or cracking, careful consideration before use. If the buyer firmly uses dark-colored tiles, resulting in deformation, cracking and other problems, the buyer shall bear full responsibility and the seller shall not bear any responsibility.<\/p>\n

\nIV. Installation guidelines:<\/h3>\n

1. According to the width of the roof tiles, choose the position of the first tile (from left to right, from right to left, from the center to both sides). The first tile must be placed perpendicular to the eave line, otherwise the following tiles cannot be installed forward or backward.<\/p>\n

2. When installing the main tile, according to the direction of the local monsoon, install it against the wind and lap it with the wind, the overlap length of the lap in the direction of flowing water (longitudinal direction) should be 200mm300mm, and the overlap length of the lap in the horizontal direction should be 1-2 bob; the bottom tile should not be more than 100mm above the purlin bar at the best.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

V. Lap joints: Flow direction - wave wave buckle, head and tail connected Horizontal - tile edge wave buckle.<\/h3>\n

Note: In principle, trapezoidal tiles are lapped horizontally to one wave position, wavy tiles are lapped horizontally to two wave positions, and longitudinal laps are \u2265300mm, and the flatter the slope, the larger the lap position.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

VI. Solid sealing method:<\/h3>\n

1. When fixing with self-tapping screws, the tile needs to be reamed in advance (or reaming screws), the hole diameter needs to be larger than the diameter of the self-tapping screws 2-3mm, for the thermal expansion and contraction of the reserved space. Playing self-tapping screws (recommended to use reaming screws) from the middle of the tile to the two ends of the installation, do not both ends at the same time to the middle of the tile installation, screws are fixed loosely and tightly appropriate, in particular, can not be fixed too tightly, otherwise waterproofing caps and tiles are easy to crack due to long-term thermal expansion and contraction of force).<\/p>\n

2. The roof structure is made of light steel or wood, the purlin or truss should be leveled to ensure that they are in the same plane, and the screws are recommended to be reamed screws or wood screws with a diameter of 5.5mm or more.<\/p>\n

3. Waterproofing fittings: 4 sets\/square meter or more (recommended).<\/p>\n

4. If glue is required for blocking, it is preferable to use glass adhesive and not recommended to use structural adhesive and styrofoam.<\/p>\n

Note: The black washer in the waterproof accessories must not be missing, this is the main waterproof bit. The waterproof cap prevents the screws from being exposed to the air. It is recommended to use the one-piece waterproof accessory to avoid losing the washer and cap, which will affect the effectiveness of use. <\/span><\/p>\n

\nVII. Ridge tile installation:<\/h3>\n

1. Selection of ridge tile: according to the distance between the top two purlins, choose the suitable ridge tile, the common ridge tile model is 200*200, 250*250, 300*300; according to different slopes, choose the suitable angle of the ridge tile, usually there are two kinds of tile, 135\u00b0 and 160\u00b0. The right angle is very important, if the angle is not right, you can first use a heater to adjust it to match the slope naturally, and you can't install it with force, otherwise it will be easy to cause cracking of the ridge tile or the main tile of the articulation due to the characteristics of thermal expansion and cold contraction.<\/p>\n

2. When installing, cut off a small section of the first ridge tile to avoid overlap between the ridge tile overlap and the main tile overlap (i.e., the ridge tile and the main tile are misaligned, not one-to-one), resulting in gaps that can hide dirt or water leakage.<\/p>\n

3. Take care to install against the wind.<\/p>\n

4. When installing the ridge tile, the two sides of the upper end of the main tile can not extend too long to contact each other, to leave the expansion bit. (As shown in the figure)<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

VIII. Installation recommendations when remodeling old plants<\/h3>\n

1, if the original old tiles are not removed and covered directly:<\/p>\n

A. In principle, it is not recommended to install new tiles directly on the original old tiles (because in summer, the tiles can not dissipate heat underneath, resulting in high temperature, which is easy to cause deformation of the tiles). If you can't dismantle the old tiles for special reasons, it is recommended to choose thicker high pit tiles and add more waterproof fittings (including self-tapping screws) to fasten them when installing.<\/p>\n

B, need to choose the wave height greater than the original waveform products, so as to avoid direct contact between the new tile and the old tile due to the inability to dissipate heat produced by the ruffled edge or deformation, exposed in the original tile on the screws need to be ground flat, and pay attention to the length of the screws must be played in the original purlin of the plant.<\/p>\n

C. If there is no matching waveform product or the original slope is flat and needs to increase the slope, it is recommended to add a small square tube or angle iron within the bearing range of the house to provide space for heat dissipation, and then select the appropriate product to be installed in accordance with the correct installation method.<\/p>\n

2\u3001If the original tile is dismantled and new tile is installed: if the original purlin distance is big, you need to consider adding square tube or angle iron in the middle of two purlins to increase the support and choose the high crest products, and install them according to the correct installation method.<\/p>\n

\nIX. Tile recommendations:<\/h3>\n

1. Length - the longest length try to control within 11 meters. (Reason: A, thermal expansion and contraction of the original, the longer the tile the greater the impact, the more likely to be deformed. (B, easy transportation and lifting)<\/p>\n

2. Color - recommended white, blue, green, preferred white surface. (According to the stability of the color: white - blue - green - grey - yellow - red, ordinary PVC tiles are prone to fading. Dark-colored tiles are easy to absorb heat, resulting in increased temperature of the tiles and easy to cause deformation of the tiles.)<\/p>\n

3. Environment - tile surface temperature of -20 \u00bac-50 \u00bac, can be used in most parts of China. In North China, Northeast, Northwest need to try to choose more than 2.0mm. Tile surface temperature for a long time below zero degrees below the tile will be due to thermal expansion and contraction of the nature of easy to become brittle and lead to cracking, tile surface temperature over 50 \u00bac tile due to thermal expansion and contraction of the nature of easy to deform and lead to water leakage.<\/p>\n

4. Tile type--Trapezoidal PVC tiles are usually used for pyramid and other sloped roofs, and wavy PVC tiles are usually used for round arched surfaces.PVC series tiles are suitable for roofs with height-to-span ratios of 1:5-1:20, and the smaller the roof slope is, the higher the peaks of the tiles and the thickness of the tiles should be chosen according to the actual purlin distance. The smaller the slope of the roof, the higher the crest and the appropriate thickness should be selected according to the actual purlin pitch.<\/p>\n

5. Structure-- PVC series tiles can only be installed directly on purlins for use in a single structure, and cannot be installed in a composite structure with rock wool, foam and other sandwich panels for use (because the use of the composite structure is likely to result in the heat gathered on the surface of the PVC series tiles not being able to be dispersed in time, leading to deformation of the tiles and leakage of water).<\/p>\n

\"PVC\u74e6\u5b89\u88c5\"

PVC tile installation<\/p><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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